First let’s talk about a typical landscape in our area. Most yards are dominated by the lawn, some shrub beds with plants shaped like meatballs and a few exotic tree species with colored mulch riding too high up on the trunk. This tightly manicured setting does not mimic nature and basically has no sustainable attributes.

Let’s look at the landscape from another angle and create an environment that is more self-sustaining by improving the quality of the soil, water and air. Designing a yard where the relationships between people, plants and animals can benefit by recycling yard-waste, leaves, kitchen scraps and water. Also, this new practice will take less time and work and benefit wildlife and the environment. We can start by carefully observing the site and outline the existing geologic features as well as the existing vegetation. Utilizing the properties existing features rather than ripping and tearing with a bulldozer will give the property a healthier start. Removing invasive species and by planting native trees, shrubs and perennials that have adapted to the properties existing physical feature will make for a smooth transition. Overtime, nature will show us what direction to grow our landscape. For instance, if we are trying to establish a lawn in a shady location and all that will grow is this location is moss, let the moss grow. The foundation of ecological gardening is using nature as a guide and she will show us the easiest and correct way.

Pete Muroski

Sunscald, characterized by sunken, dried, or cracked bark, is caused by the heating effect of the winter sun in cold weather. It usually occurs on the south or southwest side of the tree. In the fall, wrap young and thin –barked trees with tree wrap from the bottom up to the first major branch. Remove the wrap in spring. Thin-barked species, such as a maple, may require protection for several years, in full sun locations.

Winter browning of evergreens is normally caused by the combined effects of wind and sun. Trees lose water from the leaves (needle) while roots are in frozen soil. To protect evergreens, place a screen of burlap of similar materials on the south, west and windward side of the tree to block wind and sun. Anti-desiccant sprays are not very effective in offsetting the drying effects. Watering evergreens well throughout the growing season, lightly in September, then thoroughly again before the soil freezes. Select species and cultivars that tolerate winter conditions. Choose species that are susceptible to winter injury in areas of minimal exposure to winter wind and sun.

Animal damage can be severe during the winter. To protect individual trees from mice, place a cylinder of one-quarter inch mesh hardware cloth or plastic drain pipe (it should not be black in color) around the trunk. The cylinder should extend high enough to prevent animals from feeding at snow level and should be firmly anchored in the soil without disturbing the tree roots. Protection from rabbits requires coverage of up to 1 to 2 feet above level. Other means of fencing or animal control may be needed. If many trees and shrubs are to be protected, application of a repellent may be more practical. The repellent can be sprayed or painted on the trunks and branches. The effectiveness and duration of the repellent will depend on severity of the winter and the availability of other food. Fencing areas with heavy deer population may be necessary between Thanksgiving and Easter. Five to ten foot heights may be advisable depending upon the location. Install the fence tightly to the ground because deer will go under before they go over.

Pete Muroski

The second best time to plant is September and October. In the fall, days are cooler, rain is more frequent and plants are headed into their dormant or hibernation period. I should add we can plant any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. When planting in the heat of the summer, add watering wells or bowls made from topsoil or mulch. These added water retainers will keep the moisture around the root zones or the base of the plant. There are a few exceptions to the fall planting rule. Over the years, I have found that some trees do not establish very well when planted in the fall. Most nut trees such as Oaks don’t transplant well. Also Birches have a tough time establishing when planted in the fall. Container plants have a better survivability rate than baled and burlap trees this time of the year. Plants in containers are less likely to go into transplanting shock in the fall landscape.

Here are some late season tips to ensure late season survivability. First, water frequently and deeply this time of year. Hydrating our fall plantings will help the plants survive the cold, dry winds in winter. Next, mulching the plants is important. By insulating the roots with a two inch layer of organic mulch this will help the plant roots survive the fluctuating warm to cold temperatures during our flicked winters. Also, lightly prune plants and remove broken, dead and weak branching structures so heavy ice and snow does not damage the plant. Caring for our plants until they have established will give us years of enjoyment.

Pete Muroski

March can be a heavy wet snowstorm that sticks to everything. A hike in the woods, after one of these storms, is just what the doctor ordered. This month can also be a freezing rain storm that turns the landscape into rock candy. Staying home poking at the fire with a good book in your lap is hopefully what the boss recommends on this day.

Spring is moving north at a rate of approximately twenty miles per day. For example a red maple may start to open along the Chesapeake Bay by mid March. The same tree will not start to bloom for another two weeks at the mouth of the Hudson. In the hills, up in our region, spring arrives in the valley first and climbs up the hill at a rate of approximately 100ft per day. One advantage of living on top of the mountain is watching spring climb up the ridge. Then again hiking down the mountain, on a warm sunny afternoon, is a natural change we should all try this spring.

March is a windy month. One week the winds will be blowing like a madman out of the north and it can feel like January. The next week the air can be flying out of the south with an Indian summer feel. During on e of these warm spells this time of year compare our mid day temperatures to temperatures along the Atlantic coast. The temp may differ by as much as twenty degrees colder on Long Island than in the Hudson Valley Region. The cold Atlantic Ocean is the reason for this temp difference. The North Atlantic is coldest this time of year and it takes a month or more to bring these temp differences back to normal.

March can bring spring floods. As the snow pack melts, from warmer weather, and as heavy spring rain falls ice jams on rivers can cause flood problems. There are some simple natural solutions to this type of flooding. Keeping hills forested and wetlands in place will divert and absorb much of spring’s heavy water flow. Keeping riparian zones, these are areas adjacent to rivers and streams, heavily wooded with trees, shrubs, perennials, and vines not lawns will help keep real estate in place. March 21st, the vernal equinox, is the first full day of spring but in our region spring weather is still about a month away.

Pete and The Natives

Last summer’s garden is in the pantry or freezer so baking, cooking, and eating is fun and one of my favorite winter sports. Please be advised, cold winter wind can be a killer so please dress appropriately when venturing out into cold windy conditions especially when skiing or snowmobiling. Winter is long in these parts so get out and enjoy it. We can all use the exercise.

In the Muslim world, it was the symbol of grief and was planted in and around grave sites. In French art, the white iris represented virginity. For centuries, it was part of England’s royal emblem. Native Americans used iris as a food, a pharmaceutical, and a perfume.

Iris flowers are loaded with pollen and are a favorite this time of year for honey bees and other pollinating insects. One outstanding native iris to our region is Iris cristata or Crested Iris. This small iris makes a beautiful ground cover type plant that comes in white and shades of lavender. This plant prefers shady, wet, rather than sunny, dry, conditions. Iris verna ,a Dwarf Violet Iris or Vernal Iris, is a small. clear lavender-blue native iris that tolerates sunnier and drier conditions; a must for the perennial border. Iris versicolor or Northern Flag Iris is a tall, blue-violet to purple flower. This plant thrives in shallow standing water and is great for marshy areas, pond edges and wetter than drier spots in the garden.

June is also a time for strawberries; one of my favorite fruits. I use strawberries as a ground cover in my garden which is one example of the many changes I’m making in my garden this year. By removing unwanted plants and replacing them with edible alternatives, we create gardens with dual functions.

Edible landscapes are becoming popular and a definite trend. It was only a generation ago that our grandparents and great-grandparents ventured into the yard for dinner. Herbs, vegetables, and fruits were picked daily. Today, as food prices continue to rise, the economy continues to flounder, and costs to maintain our lawns and landscapes escalate, we should begin to use the land surrounding our homes as an extension to our pantry. Rather than planting a Calary Pear for flower only, consider planting a McIntosh Apple for flower and fruit.

Designing an edible landscape around our home is not much different than planting a traditional landscape. An edible landscape combines fruit and nut producing trees, berry bushes, herbs, and vegetables to take the place of ornamental trees, shrubs and perennials.

There are many different directions to go with an edible landscape. Next time, I’ll detail a wide variety of edible plants and how to get started. For now, let your nose guide your next walk.

Paper bags also have their problems. Fourteen million trees are cut down and converted into paper bags in this country. Manufacturing of these paper bags produce greenhouse gasses as well as transportation costs. Paper bags are biodegradable, but modern landfills don’t get enough light and water for decomposition.

The solution to this wasteful problem is to use less plastic and paper bags. There is no need to put 1-3 items in a bag. If you need a bag, use paper over plastic, or better yet, keep reusable bags on hand- which is hopefully becoming a trend. Suggest to local retailers or write a letter to the CEO of these companies asking them to take a leading role in finding ways to help and to educate customers to reduce, reuse, and recycle.

It is time to educate our children to the problems our disposable society creates when it produces too much waste. Sensitize students on being more responsible for the natural world we live in. Change family behavior by making a conscious effort to reduce, reuse, recycle and purchase reusable grocery bags. Keep these bags where they are readily available. Encourage friends and neighbors to reduce, reuse, and recycle instead of disposing of what we no longer want. If we all start taking an active role in our waste disposal habits, some day we may be talking less trash.

*Also printed in the following publications: Pawling Matters April 2009, Harlem Valley Herald April 2009.

Early scouting reports are coming back with mixed results. We had plenty of rain and snow, so most plants were kept hydrated and did not dry out. The heavy snow load insulated the root zones, but did some canopy damage. Now is the time to get out and prune any broken or dead limbs and get our plants back into shape. This is also the best time of year to transplant. Trees and shrubs are less likely to go into transplanting shock if moved before bud break.

This Spring, let’s try some sustainable alternatives to our conventional landscape practices. For instance, we are all too quick to get out the blower and remove every piece of organic matter off the lawn and garden. These clippings, if properly reintroduced into the soil, can add much needed organic material and build healthier soil for growing in. Cover the shoot of the lawnmower and have the blades grind the sticks, leaves, and grass into a compost that will break down and become a natural fertilizer in the lawn and garden. This will save us time and money because we will not need to apply as much fertilizer, or in most cases- no fertilizer. When pruning perennials and shrubs, prune clippings into smaller pieces and leave these clippings at the base of the pruned plants. The clippings will break down into a beneficial mulch and add body and organics to the soil.

This is the best time of year to plant trees, shrubs, and perennials. Here are some very important points to consider before diving in fingers first:

- Plant tighter and leave less space between plants. This will shade out unwanted weeds and keep the soil cool and moist.

- Plant the right plant in the proper location. More frustration comes from forcing a plant into a location where it does not grow naturally.

- Consider light, soil, and exposure before choosing plants.

- Use native plants over exotic species. Natives have adapted to our soils and pests, require less, if any, fertilizer, and these plants play an important role in our backyard ecology.

- Choose plants that will ultimately grow to the size and shape we are trying to fill in the landscape. A plant that will grow too fast and that will take over an area will generate many wasted hours of pruning and shaping, and before long you have a landscape of meatballs and lollypop shapes.

The best landscape design comes out of a naturalistic approach. Using plants that have adapted to our local climate have fruits and berries to attract local birds and animals, and create balance in our yard. We shouldn’t have to be slaves to our landscapes. A bit of pruning there, some weeding over here, and let Mother Nature do the rest. Try these new time and money saving methods. You will not be disappointed.

Sodium Chloride, or rock salt, is the most commonly used ice melt. It’s irregularly shaped crystals are inexpensive compared to other materials. Rock salt will not melt ice below 20 degrees Fahrenheit. It has limited effectiveness in very cold weather. Rock salt does not chemically attack concrete, but it is corrosive to steel. Not good for the car. Sodium can be toxic to vegetation and can build up in the soil and contaminate the soil. In most cases, Sodium Chloride should be avoided.

Many of us think common fertilizers are safe products to use around the landscape, but high concentrations could be deadly to adjacent vegetation. Urea, a high Nitrogen fertilizer, is less corrosive and safer to use on concrete containing rebar and around steel. Urea works down to 15 degrees, and Potassium Chloride (another fertilizer) works to 12 degrees.

Magnesium Chloride is good, and has many benefits. It’s less corrosive,
safer on concrete, less damaging to vegetation, animals, and humans. Magnesium Chloride will melt ice to 5 degrees, and needs to be applied at higher rates. Calcium Chloride flakes, pellets, and liquid will melt ice and snow down to 25 degrees below zero. Calcium Chloride can be costly, and applying heavily can produce an oily residue. There are new corrosion-inhibited grades, but this product should be used only in emergency situations in very cold weather.

Just as important as melting snow and ice is getting traction. Cat litter can work temporarily for traction but once saturated, can become very slippery. Also, it can be very tough to clean up at the end of the season. Wood ash, coal ash, and cinder from the fireplace, woodstove, fire pit, and grill works good for traction and is light weight. An environmentally sound choice, its down side is that it can be easily tracked around. So, shoes need to be removed before entering the house.

Saw dust and sand/salt mix are the two best applications for traction. Saw dust not only provides traction, but packs snow while protecting the ground underneath. Sand/salt mixes are the most effective and widely used. Sand has good traction properties but is heavy, expensive, and creates a mess. Sand/Salt mixes are not the most environmentally safe methods. Saw dust will not melt snow and ice, but is environmentally friendly and easy to clean up.

I highly recommend, over anything else mentioned, to slow down and use extreme caution during inclement weather. A slow, safe speed is the best grip you’ll ever get.