It’s the middle of the winter, everything is rock hard frozen and covered with snow. So what a perfect time to talk about sustainable garden practices for this spring.

First let’s talk about a typical landscape in our area. Most yards are dominated by the lawn, some shrub beds with plants shaped like meatballs and a few exotic tree species with colored mulch riding too high up on the trunk. This tightly manicured setting does not mimic nature and basically has no sustainable attributes.

Let’s look at the landscape from another angle and create an environment that is more self-sustaining by improving the quality of the soil, water and air. Designing a yard where the relationships between people, plants and animals can benefit by recycling yard-waste, leaves, kitchen scraps and water. Also, this new practice will take less time and work and benefit wildlife and the environment. We can start by carefully observing the site and outline the existing geologic features as well as the existing vegetation. Utilizing the properties existing features rather than ripping and tearing with a bulldozer will give the property a healthier start. Removing invasive species and by planting native trees, shrubs and perennials that have adapted to the properties existing physical feature will make for a smooth transition. Overtime, nature will show us what direction to grow our landscape. For instance, if we are trying to establish a lawn in a shady location and all that will grow is this location is moss, let the moss grow. The foundation of ecological gardening is using nature as a guide and she will show us the easiest and correct way.

Pete Muroski

by Pete | Permalink

Proper winter landscape care begins in the summer. Proper cultural practices in spring and summer are a prerequisite. Watering can be decreased in early fall and increased in late fall to provide water needed to withstand the drying winds of winter. Plants need to go dormant; don’t encourage late growth by heavy watering and nitrogen fertilization in early fall. Plants should be thoroughly watered in late fall just prior to the soil freezing.

Sunscald, characterized by sunken, dried, or cracked bark, is caused by the heating effect of the winter sun in cold weather. It usually occurs on the south or southwest side of the tree. In the fall, wrap young and thin –barked trees with tree wrap from the bottom up to the first major branch. Remove the wrap in spring. Thin-barked species, such as a maple, may require protection for several years, in full sun locations.

Winter browning of evergreens is normally caused by the combined effects of wind and sun. Trees lose water from the leaves (needle) while roots are in frozen soil. To protect evergreens, place a screen of burlap of similar materials on the south, west and windward side of the tree to block wind and sun. Anti-desiccant sprays are not very effective in offsetting the drying effects. Watering evergreens well throughout the growing season, lightly in September, then thoroughly again before the soil freezes. Select species and cultivars that tolerate winter conditions. Choose species that are susceptible to winter injury in areas of minimal exposure to winter wind and sun.

Animal damage can be severe during the winter. To protect individual trees from mice, place a cylinder of one-quarter inch mesh hardware cloth or plastic drain pipe (it should not be black in color) around the trunk. The cylinder should extend high enough to prevent animals from feeding at snow level and should be firmly anchored in the soil without disturbing the tree roots. Protection from rabbits requires coverage of up to 1 to 2 feet above level. Other means of fencing or animal control may be needed. If many trees and shrubs are to be protected, application of a repellent may be more practical. The repellent can be sprayed or painted on the trunks and branches. The effectiveness and duration of the repellent will depend on severity of the winter and the availability of other food. Fencing areas with heavy deer population may be necessary between Thanksgiving and Easter. Five to ten foot heights may be advisable depending upon the location. Install the fence tightly to the ground because deer will go under before they go over.

Pete Muroski

by Pete | Permalink

When is the best time of the year to plant trees, shrubs and perennials? This is one of the more frequently asked questions this time of year. Generally speaking, April and May is the best time to plant in our area. Spring plantings have all summer and fall to grow and acclimate.

The second best time to plant is September and October. In the fall, days are cooler, rain is more frequent and plants are headed into their dormant or hibernation period. I should add we can plant any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. When planting in the heat of the summer, add watering wells or bowls made from topsoil or mulch. These added water retainers will keep the moisture around the root zones or the base of the plant. There are a few exceptions to the fall planting rule. Over the years, I have found that some trees do not establish very well when planted in the fall. Most nut trees such as Oaks don’t transplant well. Also Birches have a tough time establishing when planted in the fall. Container plants have a better survivability rate than baled and burlap trees this time of the year. Plants in containers are less likely to go into transplanting shock in the fall landscape.

Here are some late season tips to ensure late season survivability. First, water frequently and deeply this time of year. Hydrating our fall plantings will help the plants survive the cold, dry winds in winter. Next, mulching the plants is important. By insulating the roots with a two inch layer of organic mulch this will help the plant roots survive the fluctuating warm to cold temperatures during our flicked winters. Also, lightly prune plants and remove broken, dead and weak branching structures so heavy ice and snow does not damage the plant. Caring for our plants until they have established will give us years of enjoyment.

Pete Muroski

by Pete | Permalink

March is mud season. The calendar tells us spring officially arrives later this month but the weather doesn’t start acting like spring until well into April. March is a bud swelling month. Pussy willows, red twig dog woods, snow drops, crocus, bloodroot, and the first violets tells us it won’t be long before we can cut our long johns off.

March can be a heavy wet snowstorm that sticks to everything. A hike in the woods, after one of these storms, is just what the doctor ordered. This month can also be a freezing rain storm that turns the landscape into rock candy. Staying home poking at the fire with a good book in your lap is hopefully what the boss recommends on this day.

Spring is moving north at a rate of approximately twenty miles per day. For example a red maple may start to open along the Chesapeake Bay by mid March. The same tree will not start to bloom for another two weeks at the mouth of the Hudson. In the hills, up in our region, spring arrives in the valley first and climbs up the hill at a rate of approximately 100ft per day. One advantage of living on top of the mountain is watching spring climb up the ridge. Then again hiking down the mountain, on a warm sunny afternoon, is a natural change we should all try this spring.

March is a windy month. One week the winds will be blowing like a madman out of the north and it can feel like January. The next week the air can be flying out of the south with an Indian summer feel. During on e of these warm spells this time of year compare our mid day temperatures to temperatures along the Atlantic coast. The temp may differ by as much as twenty degrees colder on Long Island than in the Hudson Valley Region. The cold Atlantic Ocean is the reason for this temp difference. The North Atlantic is coldest this time of year and it takes a month or more to bring these temp differences back to normal.

March can bring spring floods. As the snow pack melts, from warmer weather, and as heavy spring rain falls ice jams on rivers can cause flood problems. There are some simple natural solutions to this type of flooding. Keeping hills forested and wetlands in place will divert and absorb much of spring’s heavy water flow. Keeping riparian zones, these are areas adjacent to rivers and streams, heavily wooded with trees, shrubs, perennials, and vines not lawns will help keep real estate in place. March 21st, the vernal equinox, is the first full day of spring but in our region spring weather is still about a month away.

Pete and The Natives

by Pete | Permalink